Day 11

Today seemed a long day! Even though we set off just before 9am, feeling fit, the miles were slower..

We also missed out on a zip-wire sky ride which was in the first town we came to after Ayb (!!!) but which only opened at 10am. Shame. For most of today we cycled alongside the majestic River Meuse, meandering between rolling green hills, lush forests and farmland, and the occasional small hamlet or village. Unfortunately, these were all on the other side of the river, and no bridges around. We went for miles not seeing anyone, past ramshackle huts and allotments, and just bobbling about on a good track - no real ups or downs today! 

The river was so wide that there were several weirs, with locks at one side - automatic locks. We watched a small motor boat go through, the same one we waved to yesterday! (they had a Norwegian flag) We soon overtook them again, and again...

By 11am we were ready for breakfast, but there was nothing in sight at all. Then, amazingly,  another lock and a wonderful little lady presiding over a rather large cafe. We thought we had ordered a small quiche lorainne, and 2 waffles, but ended up with no quiche, and 4 waffles! Bless her. She said an awful lot to us, but all in very fast French. She refused to be photographed, but insisted on putting us in her spot. 

So we were fortified. The Norweigans came through the lock, we told them to stop following us, and the next 20 miles loomed ahead. Still alongside the river, which meant we actually followed a winding path, when more direct would have been preferable! It was a relief to leave the riverbank and climb up into the town of Sedan, reaching our b&b for 3.30. Well, truthfully, tonight it is a castle!!! Big, old, castley fort, which Paul stayed in before, and has booked us in for 2 luxurious nights! A rest! The obligatory nap was followed by a tasty meal, very French, very welcome, and all we've had today apart from waffles. (And a couple of 'coffee biscuits' we've had squirrelled away in the tuck bag..)

This is our location now-

Finally, a couple of observations:

Belgium villages were all asleep, uncared for, and just closed.

There is a distinct lack of public toilets, and the few posing as such, on a bend down a country lane, were indeed shrines.

Somebody has sneaked in and made our saddles rock hard.

Paul drinks a lot of juice, and his bike helmet now doubles not only as a hairstylist, but also as an efficient sweatband, regularly squeezed upon his forehead. Nice.

Huckleberries (Yes!!!) huckleberries look surprisingly like blueberries. Just hope they are not poisonous, as guess who tried to eat one! 

Goodnight! NO cycling tomorrow.